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Hyper Japan Festival Tsumami-Zaiku Brooch Making Workshops 2025
Hyper Japan Festival Tsumami-Zaiku Brooch Making Workshops 2025
Hyper Japan’s Tsumami-Zaiku Brooch Making Masterclass 2025, held during the annual Hyper Japan Festival from July 18 to 20 at Olympia Events in London, offers a unique opportunity to engage with the traditional Japanese craft of tsumami-zaiku. This hands-on workshop, led by expert instructor Kyoko Sakaguchi, a certified tsumami-zaiku artist, introduces participants to the art of creating intricate fabric floral designs, traditionally used for kanzashi hairpieces. The masterclass is a highlight of the festival, which attracts over 30,000 visitors annually to celebrate Japanese culture through food, crafts, and performances. Participants will craft their own tsumami-zaiku brooch, gaining both practical skills and a deeper appreciation for Japan’s rich cultural heritage.
What You Will Learn
The Tsumami-Zaiku Brooch Making Masterclass equips participants with the skills to create delicate, three-dimensional fabric designs that embody Japanese aesthetics. Beginners will learn the foundational techniques of tsumami-zaiku, which involves pinching and folding small fabric squares to form floral patterns, such as the kiku (chrysanthemum). You will master the precise folding methods, using tweezers to create sharp, elegant shapes that mimic natural forms. The workshop teaches how to select and prepare high-quality fabrics, ensuring durability and visual appeal. Participants will also learn to apply starch glue to secure the folded shapes, a critical step in maintaining the structure of the designs.
Intermediate learners, or those confident with delicate crafts, will explore more complex, multi-layered designs, such as the Tudor rose, hydrangea, or crane. These advanced techniques require greater precision and an understanding of layering to achieve depth and realism. The class covers the cultural significance of tsumami-zaiku, including its historical use in adorning kimonos and hair accessories for maiko (geisha apprentices). You will gain insight into the symbolism of specific designs, such as the chrysanthemum’s association with longevity and the crane’s representation of good fortune.
Participants will also learn practical skills for assembling a brooch, including attaching the fabric designs to a base and securing a pin. The workshop emphasizes patience and attention to detail, reflecting the meditative quality of traditional Japanese crafts. By the end, you will create a unique, handmade brooch to take home, serving as a tangible reminder of the skills acquired. The experience fosters an appreciation for the artistry and cultural context of tsumami-zaiku, encouraging participants to continue exploring this craft.
Lesson Structure
The Tsumami-Zaiku Brooch Making Masterclass is structured as a 90-minute session, offered multiple times across the three-day Hyper Japan Festival to accommodate various schedules. The workshop is divided into beginner and intermediate sessions, ensuring accessibility for all skill levels. Beginner classes are suitable for participants aged 5 and up, with children under 6 requiring adult supervision, while intermediate sessions cater to those with prior experience or confidence in handling small, delicate materials. Each session is limited to a small group, typically 4 to 6 participants, allowing for personalized instruction and a focused learning environment.
The class begins with a 10-minute introduction by Kyoko Sakaguchi, who shares the history and cultural significance of tsumami-zaiku. This segment covers the craft’s origins in the Edo period and its role in Japanese fashion, particularly for kanzashi hairpieces. The instructor provides a brief overview of the tools and materials, setting the stage for the hands-on portion. Participants are introduced to the specific designs they will create, which vary by day—beginners might craft a chrysanthemum, while intermediate learners may tackle a hydrangea or crane.
Following the introduction, a 20-minute demonstration guides participants through the core techniques. Kyoko demonstrates how to cut fabric into precise squares, typically 2–3 cm, and fold them using tweezers to create petal-like shapes. For beginners, the focus is on simple folds to form a single-layered flower, while intermediate participants learn to layer multiple petals for a three-dimensional effect. The instructor explains how to apply starch glue sparingly to secure the folds without compromising the fabric’s texture. This demonstration is interactive, with participants encouraged to ask questions and observe closely.
The hands-on practice, lasting approximately 45 minutes, is the heart of the workshop. Participants receive their materials and tools, including fabric squares, tweezers, and a brooch base. Beginners start by folding and gluing a series of petals to form a chrysanthemum, following step-by-step guidance. Intermediate learners work on more intricate designs, requiring precise alignment and layering to achieve depth. Kyoko circulates among the group, offering individualized feedback to refine techniques and ensure each participant progresses confidently. The small group size ensures that no one is left behind, and the instructor adapts her guidance to suit each learner’s pace.
The final 15 minutes are dedicated to assembling the brooch and a cultural wrap-up. Participants attach their fabric designs to a metal or fabric brooch base, securing it with adhesive or thread. The instructor demonstrates how to add a pin, ensuring the brooch is wearable. This segment includes a brief discussion on how to care for the finished piece and ideas for incorporating tsumami-zaiku into other crafts, such as hair accessories or home decor. The workshop concludes with a reflective moment, where participants can share their creations and discuss their experience. A mini tea break, featuring Japanese tea and light snacks, fosters a communal atmosphere, echoing the social aspect of traditional Japanese crafts.
The structure is designed to be accessible yet challenging, catering to diverse skill levels while maintaining the integrity of the craft. Participants leave with a completed brooch and a handout summarizing techniques and tips for further practice. The workshop requires a separate festival ticket, ensuring access to the broader Hyper Japan experience.
Materials Used
The workshop provides all necessary materials, carefully selected to reflect the traditional methods of tsumami-zaiku. The primary material is high-quality silk or chirimen (crepe) fabric, cut into small squares of 2–3 cm. These fabrics are chosen for their flexibility and ability to hold precise folds. Participants can select from a range of colors, such as soft pinks, vibrant reds, or classic whites, to create designs that align with traditional Japanese aesthetics or personal preferences.
Starch glue, a traditional adhesive made from wheat or rice starch, is used to secure the folded fabric shapes. This water-soluble glue is applied sparingly with small brushes or applicators to maintain the fabric’s delicate texture. Tweezers are provided for precise folding and pinching, essential for creating the sharp edges of petals and leaves. Beginners use basic tweezers, while intermediate learners may use finer tools for detailed work.
Additional materials include wax paper to support the fabric during assembly, ensuring clean and stable construction. Brooch bases, typically metal or fabric-covered, are provided to mount the finished designs, along with pins for wearability. Scissors and small rulers are available for cutting fabric to exact measurements. All materials are safe, though participants with allergies to adhesives or metals are advised to take precautions, as noted by the organizers.
The workshop also includes a take-home kit with a small sample of fabric, a folding guide, and care instructions, allowing participants to practice at home. The materials are sourced to maintain authenticity, reflecting the craftsmanship of tsumami-zaiku artisans in Japan.
YouTube Channel
For those inspired to continue their tsumami-zaiku journey, the YouTube channel “Tsumami Kanzashi School” offers detailed tutorials and insights into the craft. Visit their channel at https://www.youtube.com/@TsumamiKanzashiSchool to explore videos on folding techniques, design variations, and the cultural context of tsumami-zaiku.
Brief History of Tsumami-Zaiku
Tsumami-zaiku, meaning “pinched craft,” is a traditional Japanese art form that originated over 200 years ago during the Edo period (1603–1868). The craft involves folding and pinching small squares of fabric, typically silk or chirimen, to create intricate, three-dimensional floral and natural designs. These creations are most famously used to craft kanzashi, ornamental hairpieces worn with kimonos, particularly by maiko (geisha apprentices) and during special occasions like festivals or tea ceremonies. The technique’s delicate and precise nature reflects Japan’s broader aesthetic principles of simplicity, elegance, and harmony with nature.
The roots of tsumami-zaiku trace back to the early Edo period, when Japan’s urban culture flourished under the Tokugawa shogunate. During this time, sumptuary laws restricted ostentatious displays of wealth, prompting artisans to develop creative ways to adorn clothing and accessories using accessible materials like fabric. Tsumami-zaiku emerged as a response, transforming humble silk scraps, often repurposed from old kimonos, into elaborate designs. The craft was initially practiced by women in the imperial court and samurai households, who used it to create hair ornaments that complemented traditional attire. By the mid-Edo period, tsumami-zaiku had gained popularity among the merchant class and geisha, becoming a symbol of refined beauty.
The technique draws inspiration from origami, as it involves folding fabric into shapes without cutting or sewing the primary structure. Unlike origami, however, tsumami-zaiku relies on starch glue to secure the folds, allowing for durable, long-lasting designs. Common motifs include flowers like the chrysanthemum, plum blossom, and cherry blossom, each carrying cultural significance—chrysanthemums symbolize longevity, while cherry blossoms evoke transience. Over time, artisans expanded the repertoire to include animals, such as cranes, and seasonal symbols, reflecting Japan’s deep connection to nature and cyclical time.
During the Meiji period (1868–1912), Japan’s rapid modernization threatened traditional crafts, including tsumami-zaiku, as Western fashion and industrialization took hold. However, the craft persisted in Kyoto and Edo (modern-day Tokyo), where geisha and traditional performers continued to wear kanzashi. Artisans adapted by incorporating new materials, such as imported fabrics, while preserving the core techniques. The 20th century saw a revival of interest in tsumami-zaiku as part of Japan’s efforts to preserve its cultural heritage. Craft schools and workshops, particularly in Tokyo’s Asakusabashi district, a hub for traditional crafts, began offering formal training to pass down the skills.
Tsumami-zaiku’s cultural significance lies in its embodiment of wabi-sabi, the Japanese philosophy of finding beauty in imperfection and transience. Each piece is handmade, with slight variations that highlight the artisan’s individuality. The craft also reflects the concept of mottainai, a respect for materials by repurposing fabric scraps into art. Today, tsumami-zaiku extends beyond kanzashi to include brooches, earrings, and decorative objects, appealing to both traditionalists and modern crafters. Its versatility has made it a popular activity for tourists and locals alike, with workshops offered in Japan and abroad, such as at Hyper Japan.
The craft requires patience, precision, and an understanding of Japanese aesthetics, making it both a technical and meditative practice. Modern artisans like Kyoko Sakaguchi continue to innovate, blending traditional designs with contemporary elements, such as Western-inspired flowers like the Tudor rose. Tsumami-zaiku remains a cherished part of Japan’s intangible cultural heritage, recognized by organizations like the Japan National Tourism Organization for its role in preserving traditional craftsmanship. Its accessibility to beginners, combined with its depth for advanced practitioners, ensures its enduring appeal in the global craft community.





